I created this Lacy Solomon’s Grid Scarf pattern with the intention to introduce another way to work the Solomon’s Knot. Making it into a grid by using double crochet stitches, this makes the scarf a lot more stable than the traditional Solomon’s Knot stitch does. …
The 4th of July is upon us and I needed to make the Americana Coffee Beanie Cozy! We have 2 other great patterns for the 4th, but I really like our Coffee Beanie Cozies so I really wanted to make one festive for the 4th! …
Something came over me one day and I just had to design an elegant headscarf. I know! It’s not my usual kind of design.
When I think of head scarves I think of the 1950’s and old movies with (not so fast) open top cars, winding country roads, sunshine and that innocent romance element. So I knew that my design had to be lacy and lightweight to represent being carefree, pretty and simple to add to the elegance and practical because if it isn’t who is going to wear it?!
Head scarves look so cute on lots of women. Personally I don’t think I could pull this one off, but who knows in the summer with a super long summer dress I might pull off the boho vibe with it … maybe. I’m hoping!
Finding the right stitch for my Elegant Headscarf
So out came my stitch directories. You may have noticed that I am much more comfortable with the warmer stitches and my designs reflect that. Ordinarily I like to be cozy and wrapped up. And designing things with a spring and summer vibe in the middle of what feels like the longest winter ever has its own problems LOL.
There are so many pretty lacy stitches out there. But I found it hard to believe that the drunken granny stitch had not been used for something like this. It is such a great stitch, using only double crochets and chains (US terms) so is a great introduction to more open stitch work for beginner crocheters.
Pattern links:
If you prefer an inexpensive pdf version of this pattern you can find it in the following places:
Materials you will need to create the Elegant Headscarf:
#2 weight yarn or cotton of choice. I used approx. 120 yards of Stylecraft Special 4 ply in cream.
3.5mm hook
Stitch markers (optional)
Scissors
This is our first pattern that uses #2 weight (4 ply)yarn but for me it was a no-brainer decision. It is fine and lightweight so perfect for obtaining the lightweight, carefree elegance that I was looking for. I also happened to have some in my stash so that was a bonus!
#3 (DK) or #4 weight (aran) yarns add bulk and weight so your project will finish up being wider and heavier. Although the pattern works with them, and some of my testers used heavier yarns, I would recommend you try with a #2 weight first. I promise you will love the outcome!
Sizing:
My head scarf worked out at 2.75” by 58” – by all means make this one shorter but long enough to tie around a bun or ponytail and have the ends dangle a little. That too would look so pretty and be perfect for younger girls and moms alike!
Pattern Notes:
Written in US terms
This pattern is reversible
Ch3 at the start of the row does count as a st.
To make the pattern wider you could use a bigger hook or a heavier weight yarn.
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
Ch sp – chain space
St / sts – stitch / stitches
Sk – skip
dc – double crochet
Rep – repeat
FO – fasten off
The Elegant Headscarf Pattern:
Row 1: Ch19
(4dc, ch3, dc) in 6th ch from hook, *sk4 chs (4dc, ch3, dc) in next ch*.
Rep from * to * until you have 3 ch’s remaining. Sk 2ch, dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2: Ch3, work (4dc, ch3, dc) in each ch3 sp across, dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row, turn
Rows 3 on: Repeat row 2 until your hair scarf measures approx 58” (or desired length)
FO, weave in ends.
Sweet and Simple Event
Between 15th and 21st February 2022 you can get this pdf pattern free on Ravelry using the code that you can find in the round up post.
Get the code by clicking the link below
Then come back and use the code in our Ravelry shop by clicking the button below:
Our latest shawl crochet pattern is here: the Picot Fan Wrap! As the name implies, we used picot stitches and “fans” (shells with spacing) to get the look. I love this wrap because it is so very pretty and lacy yet it was actually pretty …
Today we release our Kate Coffee Beanie Cozy (or CBC as we refer to them). It uses the same gorgeous and timeless stitch combo that is in all of our Kate designs. It is a great collection for girls of all ages from children to …
Today’s Friendship Square is the Raised Diagonal Friendship Square and was designed by me (Sara). I wanted something that had a little flair but would still be pretty easy to work up. One trick I can tell you about this pattern, is to pay attention to where the post stitches are going–you will be working up in a diagonal line, using 3 post stitches (except for edges) to go upwards. So you are offset by one post stitch each new row of front posts. It will make a lot more sense below!
Although you do not have to make this one as part of the CAL. It would also make a great washcloth or you could increase the stitch count and make a pillow with it, or a gorgeous runner!
You can find links for the other squares for this CAL and the coupon code you need for this one on our blog post, click the button below
Once you have the coupon code you need click the button below:
The multiple for this stitch is 10. So if your square doesn’t come out to the 9″ x 9″ that it should using the hook you’re using, you know how to modify the starting chain or chainless foundation row to get you started! This pattern works up the same way no matter how many stitches you have, so long as it is a multiple of 10 (plus 1 for the turning chain!).
Materials
This post contains affiliate links! These are at no extra cost to you!
All post stitches are worked around post of stitch one row below (previous row made) unless stated otherwise in pattern.
Even numbered rows are all considered wrong side of the pattern and thus have the same instructions each time, which is written for you in row 2.
FPDC
Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from front to back between the posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches.
The hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the double crochet that you’re working around.
Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch.
You now have 3 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.
One front post double crochet (FP dc) is complete.
STEP 1: Ch2, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook and pull up a loop, ch1 with using only 1 loop on the hook, yo and pull thru two loops. This creates both the foundation chain and the first row of SC at the same time.
STEP 2: insert hook into the chain you just made in the first step (it will look like 2 loops or a normal “v” of the bottom of the stitch), pull up a loop; ch1 using first loop on the hook only; yo and pull thru last 2 loops.
STEP 3: continue step 2 until you have desired number of foundation single crochet stitches.
Row 2– (and all wrong side rows) Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across
Row 3– Ch1, sc in first sc, *sc in each of the next 4 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc from previous row, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc from previous row, FPDC around next sc, sc in next sc; Rep from * to last 9 sts, Ending: sc in each of the next 4 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc, FPDC around next sc, sc in each of last 2 sc, turn.
For The Next Set of Rows, This is the Repeat for the Pattern:
For Row 4– Repeat row 2.
Row 5– Ch1, sc in first sc, *sc in next 2 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1 sk next sc from previous row, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk ch from previous row, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each next 3 sc; Rep from * to last 9 sts; Ending: sc in next 2 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc from previous row, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk ch from previous row, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the last 2 sc.
Row 6– Repeat row 2.
For Row 7– Ch1, sc in first sc, *FPDC around next sc, ch1 sk next sc, FPDC around nex FPDC, ch1, sk ch, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the next 5 sc; Rep from * to last 9 sts; Ending: FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk next sc, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the last 4 sc, turn.
Row 8– Repeat row 2.
Row 9– Ch1, sc in first sc, *FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk ch, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the next 5 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc; rep from * to last 9 sts; Ending: FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk ch, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of last 6 sc, turn.
For Row 10– Repeat row 2.
Row 11– Ch1, sc in first sc, *FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the next 5 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk ch; rep from * to last 9 sts; Ending: FPDC around next FPDC, sc in each of the next 5 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn.
Row 12– Repeat row 2.
For Row 13– Ch1, sc in first sc, *sc in each of next 4 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next sc, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk next ch, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in next sc; rep from * to last 9 sts; Ending: sc in each of next 4 sc, FPDC around next sc, ch1, sk next ch, FPDC around next FPDC, ch1, sk next ch, sc in last sc, turn.
Finishing Your Square:
Continue repeating rows 4-13 until your square measures 9″ tall.
Do not fasten off.
Border: Where you are at the end of the final row of the pattern, ch1 and turn. SC across, placing [sc, ch1, sc] in the corner; sc evenly around the sides of the rows, also placing [sc, ch1, sc] in each corner—finishing up with a [sc, ch1] in the final corner and slip stitching to the first SC made. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Video Tutorial:
Our FaceBook community group are loving this CAL! If you want to join us there and make this CAL a little more sociable please just answer the 3 joining questions! Alternatively you can find us on IG or follow our page! The buttons below will take you to the places you can find us!
Can I say ‘Introducing the Bee Pillow’? Who doesn’t love bees? They have such an important role in our lives but sometimes I think it is way too easy to forget just how much they do for us! This pattern is actually reminding me …
Herringbone Coffee Beanie Cozy I love the herringbone stitch and it works so perfect with this Herringbone Coffee Beanie Cozy! It really has a classic look that is just so pretty. Also great for a his & hers coffee cup cozy. Super stocking stuffers and …
The Richard wrist warmers (named after my very supportive husband) are a more masculine version of our Susan Wrist warmers. These men’s wrist warmers are a great gift idea, and a good way to use your scraps or bust that stash!
Do you remember our Susan Wrist warmers?
Where the Susan Wrist warmers uses the sedge stitch the Richard wrist warmers use the crunch stitch. We released the pattern for those over a year ago now. You can find the free pattern for those here or by clicking the photo at the bottom of this page.
These men’s wrist warmers are constructed in exactly the same way but instead of using the sedge stitch I went for a more masculine looking crunch stitch.
The Richard Wrist Warmers
Don’t get me wrong, they the Susan and Richard wrist warmers are unisex really – I just wanted a reason to try them out with a different stitch LOL.
You may recall, if you have read about the Susan version, that I made the Susan version with the intention of gifting them to the ladies that worked for my husband last Christmas. They got theirs and loved them. The men then got jealous and asked to try on their gifts. They loved how they felt and that they could still use their phones etc whilst wearing them. Dan and Alex asked me to make them a pair but make them look a ‘bit more manly’ than the pink and gold versions. They ‘advised’ of their favourite colours to wear and sent me on my merry way to get my hooks out again. Luckily, the local yarn store was 2 minutes from the office and a 5 minute walk from home.
So yes, the Richard wrist warmers have been waiting their turn for release since December last year!
What I can unequivocally say is that both lads are still wearing their wrist warmers and they still look great after a year and despite Dan having 2 small children at home!
I believe that Sara also made a few pairs of these last year as gifts for her brothers and other family members which went down a treat.
PDF Pattern links:
As always, you can find a very reasonably priced pdf version of this pattern in all of our stores:
If you prefer video tutorials instead of written patterns Sara recorded a full video on how to make these men’s wrist warmers on our YouTube Channel. The left handed version will go up very soon!
The Pattern:
Materials:
You can use any size yarn for this. Thinner yarn will use more. I used approx. 110 yards of Stylecraft Aran (#4 weight yarn) with no cuff. You can use any yarn with the appropriate size hook.
Hook recommended for the yarn used
Stitch markers (optional)
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Gauge:
Not important for this project as you create the length required with your chains and work to the desired width.
Sizing:
My finished gloves were 8.25’’ tall and 4’’ wide and fit a medium man’s hand. You will need a couple of measurements to get the perfect fit (although I have given a rough guide below). If you can get them you will need these three measurements:
Abbreviations:
Ch(s)–chain(s)
St(s)–stitch(es)
rep–repeat
dc–double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sc–single crochet
ss–slip stitch
FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC – Back post double crochet
* to * – repeat from * to *
Pattern Notes:
Written in US terms
Ch1 does not count as a st
You will need to know the measurements for length, width and distance from the top to the part of your hand where you thumb starts to get a great fit! (see photo above for more information)
The figure photos are from our Susan wrist warmers but the same principles apply here!
Note: these wrist-warmers are made as a rectangle and then the sides sewn together with a gap for the thumb.
Row 1Ch in multiples of 2 until you get the desired length of the wrist-warmer minus 1.5’’ (this is made up with the cuff later). Then ch an additional 1. Sc in second ch from hook and each st across.
OR
Fsc in multiples of 2 until you get the desired length minus 1.5’’.
I fsc 32 to start (but I would do 34 or 36 for a large size and 28 or 30 for a small if you don’t have the measurements you need)
Row 2 Turn. Alt ch2 in first st (this is made up of a sc and a ch) Ss in next st, *hdc in next st, ss in next st* along.
Note: you will end with a ss.
Row 3-32 Repeat row 2 until work is wide enough to go around the knuckles.If your knuckle length is 4’’, your work needs to be 8’’ tall.
For example, to get a 4’’ width I made mine measure 8’’ tall as I worked it. You will then turn the finished rectangle on its side to create the finished item!
Do not fasten off.
Assembly:
Turn your rectangle 90 degrees.
Using a stitch marker mark the measurement from the top of the wrist-warmer to where the thumb starts.
Mark where the thumb finishes with another stitch marker (see pic below).
SS or sew from the top to the first marker.
SS or sew from the second stitch marker to the bottom. Do not FO
To work the Cuffs:
Round 1 Ch1, sc an even number of stitches evenly around the bottom of the glove. SS to join
Note: be careful not to sc too few as this will make the gap for getting you hand in smaller! I find one sc for each row works well.
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as a dc), DC in each stitch around. SS to join.
For Round 3 Ch1, *FPDC around the first stitch, BPDC around the next st* around SS to join
Round 4 Repeat round 3.
Round 5 Repeat round 3.
FO, weave in ends.
That is all there is to these super simple but gorgeous Richard Wrist Warmers! These men’s wrist warmers are sure to be a hit.
Don’t forget to share your makes with us in our Community group on Fb or tag us on Instagram! Click the links below to find us!
You may also like:
The Bean stitch creates such a great texture on projects!N stitch mug cozy
The Kate scarf is our newest member of the Kate Collection! The Kate collection is actually named after one of my sisters. There are a few more items coming in this collection – we have a beanie, a baby bonnet and baby blanket, a mug …