Tag: learn to crochet

Learn How To Do The Tunisian Reverse Stitch

Learn How To Do The Tunisian Reverse Stitch

The 4th stitch in the Learn Tunisian Series, the Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS) is here!  While this stitch starts out a bit awkward, the second row and onward are super easy.  As always, I have written instructions, photo tutorial, and video tutorial all in one 

How To Crochet The Tunisian Purl Stitch

How To Crochet The Tunisian Purl Stitch

Welcome back!  Today’s tutorial is about the Tunisian Purl Stitch!  This stitch is worked by yarning under or in front of your hook.  You will need to hold on to the yarn while you insert your hook into the bar, then release it so you can yarn 

How To Crochet The Tunisian Simple Stitch

How To Crochet The Tunisian Simple Stitch

Welcome to the first stitch tutorial of our Tunisian CAL: Tunisian Simple Stitch, or TSS for short.  In this tutorial, we’re going to learn how to make this stitch and identify each place you need to insert your hook.  This is the easiest and most basic stitch of the Tunisian stitches, and is fundamental in building other Tunisian projects.

 

Working Your First Square

close up of how TSS looks

Now we’re getting into it!  In this section, I’m going to teach you how to read the pattern and how to work the first stitch which is the main stitch you will need to know for every project: Tunisian Simple Stitch–TSS.

 

 

The TSS is used to get all projects started off, which is called your starting or foundation row.  This does not count as your first row when following patterns or row counting.  You also will not count your bind off row at the top unless the pattern states that you will.

Materials List:

Note: this list contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!

I used:

Worsted/Aran/#4 weight yarn–Brava Worsted by Knit Picks in Cornflower, Tidepool, Alfalfa, and mint.  I was able to get 2 squares out of each skein. As there are 12 squares, if you are using the same yarn, you will need 3 of each.  I also used Brava Worsted Speckle in Tidal for borders and joining.

You can find Brava Worsted at WeCrochet

Fiber: 100% premium acrylic

Weight: Worsted

Crochet Gauge: 11-14 sc = 4″ on I-K hooks (5.5mm-6.5mm)

Yards: 218

Grams: 100

Machine was and dry

I used a 6.5mm Tunisian hook from Furls and also one from Love To Crochet–a set I bought on Amazon.

Scissors

Stitch markers

Tape Measure

Yarn Needle

Getting Started

For our first stitch lesson, we are only working one stitch: TSS.  The swatch we will work will only be 4″ X 4″ (a standard gauge swatch) which you will then use to as practice for making that first square of the CAL!

 

 

For the CAL, you only need to work up a 12″ x 12″ square.

Row 1

For Tunisian Crochet, you will need to know that a row consists of both the forward pass and the return pass (refer to our Introduction post to remind yourself).  You must have completed both to consider that row complete.   I’d like you to mark the very end stitch (farthest left stitch, two loops) which will mark where you work your last “ending” stitch (refer back to the Introductory post to be reminded of what that is).  At this point, I would also like to show you how a Tunisian pattern looks:

Row 1:

Forward Pass–TSS across

Return Pass– Normal return.

Let Me Explain…

Did you understand that?  I’ll help.  For the Forward Pass, we need to work the indicated stitch.  To do this, we need to grab up loops again.  But WAIT!  Not just any ol’ spot will do! Each different stitch will have a specific spot you need to insert your hook into: what we call “bars”.  These are the vertical “bars” along the row as shown in the next picture:

Completed foundation row, showing vertical bars

So Where Does My Hook Go??

Each different Tunisian stitch will have a different bar to pick up however, do NOT pick up the very very first one that is right below the loop on your hook.  If it helps you to know where to start, count your bars from the opposite end of the work–INCLUDING THE VERY END STITCH THAT WE MARKED.  When you reach the number of stitches you counted for your chain, you will know where to start.  Here’s another picture:

First “bar” of TSS you need to pick up

Technique

In the picture above, where I show you where to find the first bar, you can see that I skipped the bar directly below my loop that was already on the hook and went into the next bar.  Here’s the instructions:

 

 

  1. insert hook behind next front bar, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Stop.
  2. insert hook behind next front bar, yarn over, and pull up a loop.  Stop.
  3. repeat step 2 until you reach your marked stitch: insert hook into TWO loops at the end (your chain up from previous row), yarn over, and pull up a loop:
go thru two loops on very last stitch at the end of the forward pass of row 1 and each row thereafter

Now we have completed our first forward pass.

Next Step:

To work the next part of this row, complete the return pass as follows:

  1. Yarn over, pull thru one loop (this is your chain up and also referred to as the edge stitch)
  2. Yarn over, pull thru two loops.  Stop.
  3. Repeat step 2 until only one loop remains on the hook.

You now have completed both your foundation row and first row of TSS!

To continue, you need only keep working row 1 until you have the desired sizing.

 

First gathered TSS stitch of the forward pass

 

 

Where To Get The PDF Pattern

Sunflower Store

buy the bundle

Get the PDF pattern on Ravelry for free for the month of May.  Use code TSS at check out.  Click the button below to go to the pattern and enter the code.

Click this button to go to the Ravelry pattern page and enter the code at checkout

Learn Tunisian Series Links

Learn Tunisian Series (round up post and CAL information)

Introduction to Tunisian

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS)

Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS)

Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS)

Tunisian Full Stitch (TFS)

Tunisian Half-Double Crochet Stitch (THDCS)

Tunisian Double Crochet Stitch (TDCS)

Tunisian Smock Stitch

Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch

Tunisian Basket Weave Stitch

Tunisian Crossed Stitch

Tunisian Wide Ribs Stitch

Video Tutorial

 

Tunisian Crochet Series: Beginning Techniques

Tunisian Crochet Series: Beginning Techniques

Welcome to the first in the Tunisian Crochet Series.  We’re learning the beginnings (basics) in this introductory tutorial. Helen and I love crochet and we want to share our knowledge of stitches and techniques with everyone!  If you didn’t know, we have a corner-to-corner (C2C) 

Easter and Clover Coffee Beanie Cozies Crochet Patterns

Easter and Clover Coffee Beanie Cozies Crochet Patterns

This week, we are releasing two CBC’s for you: Clover and Easter Coffee Beanie Cozies!  We wanted to give you enough time to make both for both Holidays. The Clover CBC features an applique that is attached while working the project–don’t worry!  I show you how 

Picot Fan Wrap Crochet Pattern

Picot Fan Wrap Crochet Pattern

Picot Fan Wrap Pin

Our latest shawl crochet pattern is here: the Picot Fan Wrap!  As the name implies, we used picot stitches and “fans” (shells with spacing) to get the look.  I love this wrap because it is so very pretty and lacy yet it was actually pretty warm against the chill air in Kansas when I took it outside to take pictures!

I love the idea of wrapping up in this by the fireplace or even outside around a bonfire!  The best part about this pattern is that it doubles as a Super Scarf!

picot fan wrap
Worn as a Super Scarf

Picot Fan Wrap

 

 

I really like a pattern that is versatile like this.  Which is why the Paige Mod Scarf is one of my favorites, too.  They can be worn in so many ways!

 

 

What I Used

This post contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!

I used Lion Brand’s Mandala yarn in Pixie (shown in the pictures) to make this wrap.  I used 2 cakes, which was around 1000 yards of DK/Light weight #3 yarn.  And of course, I also used my Furls Streamline Galaxy 4mm hook.

You will also need scissors, tapestry needle, and you might want some stitch markers to mark the first and last stitches to make sure your edges are straight.

I personally really love Mandala yarn however, this would look equally as gorgeous in a single color of light weight yarn.  Maybe one with sparkles?

 

 

Gauge Needed

To get the gauge, I worked up a 4″ x 4″ swatch of double crochets.  I came up with 15 double crochets in 8 rows to get the 4″ square measurement.  To get this gauge, either work 15 foundation double crochets (we have a video here) or chain up 14+3 (17), and double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook–your 3 skipped chains will count as a double crochet.

Continue working double crochet rows until you reach 8 rows and measure your square.  If you are at or near 4″, then you’re spot on!  If you’re a little small, go up a hook size–4.5mm or 5mm–or tighten your tension a bit with the 4mm.  If you’re too big, go down a hook size–3.75mm or 3.5mm–or loosen your tension a bit with the 4mm.

Sizing

The sizing for this amazing wrap is 75″ long by 28″ high.  This is the standard sizing for a rectangle shawl, and not far off for a super scarf.  You can make this narrower or longer if you like.  Even wider or shorter!

Special Stitches Used

The only special stitch I used for this was the Picot.  To work a Picot,  [dc in next dc, ch3, insert hook down through top of dc just made, slip stitch to close]. In other words…
Step 1: DC in next stitch
Step 2: Ch3 (figure 1)
For Step 3: Insert hook down through top of dc just made and finish a slip stitch to close (figures 2-4)

picot stitch how to
Figure 1: Chain 3
picot stitch how to
Figure 2 Insert into top of DC
picot stitch how to
Figure 3 (different angle of figure 2)
picot stitch how to
Figure 4 Completed Picot

 

 

 

Abbreviations

Ch(s) – chain(s)

Ss – slip stitch

St(s) – Stitch(es)

Sk – skip

Rep – Repeat

FO—fasten off

Sc – single crochet

DC—Double Crochet

Picot Fan Wrap Pattern

Row 1— Ch290. Sc 2nd ch from hook, *ch5, sk 3ch, sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. (72 ch-5 spaces)

Row 2— Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), *sc in next ch5 arch, 8dc in next arch, sc in next arch, ch5; rep from * to last arch, sc in last arch, ch2, dc in last sc, turn. (24
shells, 23 ch-5 spaces)

For Row 3— Ch1, sc in first st, sk [ch2, sc], *make a Picot by working [dc in next dc, ch3, insert hook down through top of dc just made, ss to close] 7 times, dc in next dc, sc in next arch; rep from * to end, turn. (24 Picot fans, 25 sc)

 

 

Row 4— Ch8 (counts as dc and 1 ch-5 arch), sk next 2 Picots, *sc in next Picot, ch5, sk 1 Picot, sc in next Picot, ch5 sk 2 Picots, dc in next sc**, ch5, sk 2 Picots; rep from * ending last rep at **, turn. (72 Ch5 spaces)

Row 5— Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), *sc in next ch5 arch, 8dc in next arch, sc in next arch, ch5; rep from * to last arch, sc in last arch, ch2, dc in 3rd ch of ch-8, turn. (24 shells, 23 ch-5 spaces)

Rows 6-40— Repeat rows 3-5 until wrap measures about 28” high, blocked. I got 40 rows. FO, weave in ends.

Video Tutorial for Picot Fan Stitch

Here’s a quick video on the basics of the stitches needed for this pattern:

Where To Get The Ad-Free PDF

Sunflower Store

Ravelry

LoveCrafts

Etsy

 

You Might Also Like…

Kate Wrap
crochet shawl pattern
Paige Triangle Shawl
convertible mod scarf crochet pattern
Paige Convertible Mod Scarf

 

 

Follow us: 

 

 

 

Crochet The Foundation Single Crochet

Crochet The Foundation Single Crochet

In this tutorial, we will show you how to crochet the foundation single crochet!  This is also referred to as the “chainless foundation row”.  You can do this with single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, triple crochet, etc.   I like to do the 

What You Need to Learn to Crochet

What You Need to Learn to Crochet

So you want to learn to crochet? One of the first things you need to think about is what you NEED to start learning to crochet. It’s very easy to walk into your local yarn shop or hobby store and excited about all of the 

How To Do The Single Crochet Join Method

How To Do The Single Crochet Join Method

single crochet join

How to do the Single Crochet Join Method

Today we’re going to learn how to do the single crochet join method.  In a previous “how-to” post, I showed you how to do the slip stitch join method.

The single crochet join method is very similar to the slip stitch join.  You will be using a hook and yarn instead of a needle and yarn.

Why use single crochet?

I actually really like how the single crochet join method looks because it creates a “pinstripe” appearance on the right side of your work.  It is a raised, visible line and when done with a pretty color to join your squares with, it looks amazing.

The “pinstripe” appearance of single crochet join

The Method

To do the single crochet join method, you will need to get a couple of squares together and attach your yarn.  If you put the wrong sides together, you will see the raised ridge of stitches on the right side.

sc join
This is the first corner

To start out, find a corner and attach your yarn however you like to attach.  Complete a single crochet right into that corner.

Next Step

Next, you need to place a single crochet into each stitch along this side.  If you have chain spaces between your 3-double-crochet clusters, you will also need to place a single crochet in that space.

Grab both loops of both stitches
Single Crochet in each stitch

Single crochet the two squares together all the way down the side.

Third Step

Once you reach the next corner, you will need to put a single crochet there, too.

Completed Single Crochet join on one side
Place a single crochet in the corner

Your completed join on the one side will look like this:

one side joined

Continuing Onward…

To continue joining more squares I recommend doing the following:

  1. Line up all your squares how you want them.  Start with the very bottom right square and join to the one directly to the left of it.  Fasten off and join the square to the next left, and so on down the row towards the left.  Do this for each row.  This is the same method used in quilting: sewing blocks together to make rows, and then sewing the rows together to make one piece.
  2. Next, join the bottom row to the next row up by attaching yarn in the corner and single crocheting all the way down the entire row.  To join the corners of each square as you go along, simply grab with your hook the opposite (diagonal) corner from the bottom row to the next row up.  and complete a single crochet right into those joined corners.
  3. Continue single crocheting down the row and fasten off at the end.  Grab your next row of squares and join just like the previous step.  Do this for all rows.
  4. At this point, you may want to do a single crochet border around the outer edge of your piece, to make it uniform in appearance.  After that, you can add any other border you wish.

Links

I hope this tutorial was helpful but just in case, we have a YouTube video ready to go for both right hand (here) and left hand (here)!

The next joining tutorial will be all about that Wip Stitch!  See you then!

Sara

Spider Stitch Coaster Free Crochet Pattern

Spider Stitch Coaster Free Crochet Pattern

Jorja Spider Coaster Free Crochet Pattern Welcome to Pattern of the Week!  This week’s Stitch of the Week is the spider stitch and we fixed up this pattern for you to use that stitch with!  Quick and easy, makes a great gift or even a