The 4th stitch in the Learn Tunisian Series, the Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS) is here! While this stitch starts out a bit awkward, the second row and onward are super easy. As always, I have written instructions, photo tutorial, and video tutorial all in one …
Welcome back! Today’s tutorial is about the Tunisian Purl Stitch! This stitch is worked by yarning under or in front of your hook. You will need to hold on to the yarn while you insert your hook into the bar, then release it so you can yarn …
Welcome to the first stitch tutorial of our Tunisian CAL: Tunisian Simple Stitch, or TSS for short. In this tutorial, we’re going to learn how to make this stitch and identify each place you need to insert your hook. This is the easiest and most basic stitch of the Tunisian stitches, and is fundamental in building other Tunisian projects.
Now we’re getting into it! In this section, I’m going to teach you how to read the pattern and how to work the first stitch which is the main stitch you will need to know for every project: Tunisian Simple Stitch–TSS.
The TSS is used to get all projects started off, which is called your starting or foundation row. This does not count as your first row when following patterns or row counting. You also will not count your bind off row at the top unless the pattern states that you will.
Note: this list contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!
I used:
Worsted/Aran/#4 weight yarn–Brava Worsted by Knit Picks in Cornflower, Tidepool, Alfalfa, and mint. I was able to get 2 squares out of each skein. As there are 12 squares, if you are using the same yarn, you will need 3 of each. I also used Brava Worsted Speckle in Tidal for borders and joining.
You can find Brava Worsted at WeCrochet
Fiber: 100% premium acrylic
Weight: Worsted
Crochet Gauge: 11-14 sc = 4″ on I-K hooks (5.5mm-6.5mm)
Yards: 218
Grams: 100
Machine was and dry
I used a 6.5mm Tunisian hook from Furls and also one from Love To Crochet–a set I bought on Amazon.
For our first stitch lesson, we are only working one stitch: TSS. The swatch we will work will only be 4″ X 4″ (a standard gauge swatch) which you will then use to as practice for making that first square of the CAL!
For the CAL, you only need to work up a 12″ x 12″ square.
For Tunisian Crochet, you will need to know that a row consists of both the forward pass and the return pass (refer to our Introduction post to remind yourself). You must have completed both to consider that row complete. I’d like you to mark the very end stitch (farthest left stitch, two loops) which will mark where you work your last “ending” stitch (refer back to the Introductory post to be reminded of what that is). At this point, I would also like to show you how a Tunisian pattern looks:
Forward Pass–TSS across
Return Pass– Normal return.
Did you understand that? I’ll help. For the Forward Pass, we need to work the indicated stitch. To do this, we need to grab up loops again. But WAIT! Not just any ol’ spot will do! Each different stitch will have a specific spot you need to insert your hook into: what we call “bars”. These are the vertical “bars” along the row as shown in the next picture:
Each different Tunisian stitch will have a different bar to pick up however, do NOT pick up the very very first one that is right below the loop on your hook. If it helps you to know where to start, count your bars from the opposite end of the work–INCLUDING THE VERY END STITCH THAT WE MARKED. When you reach the number of stitches you counted for your chain, you will know where to start. Here’s another picture:
In the picture above, where I show you where to find the first bar, you can see that I skipped the bar directly below my loop that was already on the hook and went into the next bar. Here’s the instructions:
Now we have completed our first forward pass.
To work the next part of this row, complete the return pass as follows:
You now have completed both your foundation row and first row of TSS!
To continue, you need only keep working row 1 until you have the desired sizing.
Get the PDF pattern on Ravelry for free for the month of May. Use code TSS at check out. Click the button below to go to the pattern and enter the code.
Learn Tunisian Series (round up post and CAL information)
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS)
Tunisian Half-Double Crochet Stitch (THDCS)
Tunisian Double Crochet Stitch (TDCS)
Welcome to the first in the Tunisian Crochet Series. We’re learning the beginnings (basics) in this introductory tutorial. Helen and I love crochet and we want to share our knowledge of stitches and techniques with everyone! If you didn’t know, we have a corner-to-corner (C2C) …
This week, we are releasing two CBC’s for you: Clover and Easter Coffee Beanie Cozies! We wanted to give you enough time to make both for both Holidays. The Clover CBC features an applique that is attached while working the project–don’t worry! I show you how …
Our latest shawl crochet pattern is here: the Picot Fan Wrap! As the name implies, we used picot stitches and “fans” (shells with spacing) to get the look. I love this wrap because it is so very pretty and lacy yet it was actually pretty warm against the chill air in Kansas when I took it outside to take pictures!
I love the idea of wrapping up in this by the fireplace or even outside around a bonfire! The best part about this pattern is that it doubles as a Super Scarf!
I really like a pattern that is versatile like this. Which is why the Paige Mod Scarf is one of my favorites, too. They can be worn in so many ways!
This post contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!
I used Lion Brand’s Mandala yarn in Pixie (shown in the pictures) to make this wrap. I used 2 cakes, which was around 1000 yards of DK/Light weight #3 yarn. And of course, I also used my Furls Streamline Galaxy 4mm hook.
You will also need scissors, tapestry needle, and you might want some stitch markers to mark the first and last stitches to make sure your edges are straight.
I personally really love Mandala yarn however, this would look equally as gorgeous in a single color of light weight yarn. Maybe one with sparkles?
To get the gauge, I worked up a 4″ x 4″ swatch of double crochets. I came up with 15 double crochets in 8 rows to get the 4″ square measurement. To get this gauge, either work 15 foundation double crochets (we have a video here) or chain up 14+3 (17), and double crochet in the 4th chain from the hook–your 3 skipped chains will count as a double crochet.
Continue working double crochet rows until you reach 8 rows and measure your square. If you are at or near 4″, then you’re spot on! If you’re a little small, go up a hook size–4.5mm or 5mm–or tighten your tension a bit with the 4mm. If you’re too big, go down a hook size–3.75mm or 3.5mm–or loosen your tension a bit with the 4mm.
The sizing for this amazing wrap is 75″ long by 28″ high. This is the standard sizing for a rectangle shawl, and not far off for a super scarf. You can make this narrower or longer if you like. Even wider or shorter!
The only special stitch I used for this was the Picot. To work a Picot, [dc in next dc, ch3, insert hook down through top of dc just made, slip stitch to close]. In other words…
Step 1: DC in next stitch
Step 2: Ch3 (figure 1)
For Step 3: Insert hook down through top of dc just made and finish a slip stitch to close (figures 2-4)
Ch(s) – chain(s)
Ss – slip stitch
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Sk – skip
Rep – Repeat
FO—fasten off
Sc – single crochet
DC—Double Crochet
Row 1— Ch290. Sc 2nd ch from hook, *ch5, sk 3ch, sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. (72 ch-5 spaces)
Row 2— Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), *sc in next ch5 arch, 8dc in next arch, sc in next arch, ch5; rep from * to last arch, sc in last arch, ch2, dc in last sc, turn. (24
shells, 23 ch-5 spaces)
For Row 3— Ch1, sc in first st, sk [ch2, sc], *make a Picot by working [dc in next dc, ch3, insert hook down through top of dc just made, ss to close] 7 times, dc in next dc, sc in next arch; rep from * to end, turn. (24 Picot fans, 25 sc)
Row 4— Ch8 (counts as dc and 1 ch-5 arch), sk next 2 Picots, *sc in next Picot, ch5, sk 1 Picot, sc in next Picot, ch5 sk 2 Picots, dc in next sc**, ch5, sk 2 Picots; rep from * ending last rep at **, turn. (72 Ch5 spaces)
Row 5— Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), *sc in next ch5 arch, 8dc in next arch, sc in next arch, ch5; rep from * to last arch, sc in last arch, ch2, dc in 3rd ch of ch-8, turn. (24 shells, 23 ch-5 spaces)
Rows 6-40— Repeat rows 3-5 until wrap measures about 28” high, blocked. I got 40 rows. FO, weave in ends.
Here’s a quick video on the basics of the stitches needed for this pattern:
In this tutorial, we will show you how to crochet the foundation single crochet! This is also referred to as the “chainless foundation row”. You can do this with single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, triple crochet, etc. I like to do the …
How to do the Single Crochet Join Method Today we’re going to learn how to do the single crochet join method. In a previous “how-to” post, I showed you how to do the slip stitch join method. The single crochet join method is very similar …
Welcome to Pattern of the Week! This week’s Stitch of the Week is the spider stitch and we fixed up this pattern for you to use that stitch with! Quick and easy, makes a great gift or even a craft fair sale item! Whip up 4 and you have a little set!
This post contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Finished piece measures approx 6” x 6”
Ch(s)–chain(s)
St(s)–stitch(es)
rep–repeat
SpSt – Spider Stitch
sc–single crochet
ss–slip stitch
sk—skip
sp(s) – spaces
*to* – repeat the Instructions between the two *
FO – fasten off
Written in US terms.
Ch1 does not count as a st.
An addition to the Jorja Collection as it is based on the Jorja design. I hope you enjoy this pattern and will link your projects to our account links listed at the end of the pattern.
Happy hooking!
FSC– https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fG-LiTY_khs
SpSt– In each ch1 sp (sc, ch1, sc)
Row 1– In color A: Fsc 11, ch2, turn
Row 2– In 2nd fsc (sc, ch1, sc) *sk1 st, (sc, ch1, sc) In the next st* repeat until you have 1 st remaining, sc in last st.
Row 3- 11– Ch2, turn, SpSt In each ch1 sp across, sc In top of ch2 turning chain from previous row.
Round 1– In the last st of row 11 (sc, ch2, sc) this will create your first corner; *sc In next 9 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) In the next st* repeat three times. Ss to first sc
Round 2– Join color B to any ch2 sp, Ch4, sk1, ss in next st, *ch3, sk1, ss to next st* around, Note: you should have 6 ch3 spaces along each side
Round 3– Ss to next ch3 sp, *ch3, ss to next ch3 sp* around, Note: you will find that you create a ch3 for each corner again and there should be 5 ch3 spaces between each corner space. If you cannot see them gently stretch your coaster a little and they should be visible. You may want to use stitch markers to mark each corner
Round 4– Attach color A to any corner, *(2sc, ch2, 2sc) in corner, (2sc in next ch2 sp) 5 times*, Repeat *to* 3 more times, Ss to first sc
Round 5– Ch1, sc in each st around and In each ch2 sp ensure you do (2sc, ch2, 2sc), SS to first sc; FO and weave In ends
We strive to have free crochet patterns to go with our Stitch of the Week each week, however, sometimes, life happens and we can’t always get one in. We’re still having the revamp in the background as well as Etsy uploading as I type. We just wanted to thank you all for hanging in there while we do all the things!
Join our Facebook Group, Sunflower Cottage Crochet Group, to be ahead of the announcements and test our new patterns that aren’t released yet!
We put all of our Stitch of the Week tutorials up on our YouTube Channel, as well as a beginner series, and a few tutorials!
Be sure to keep up with us on Instagram and Pinterest!
Learn how to crochet the Spider Stitch with this tutorial! Welcome back to another crochet tutorial with Stitch of the Week; this week it’s the Spider Stitch. Just in time for Halloween, too! Though I have to admit, I dislike spiders and that’s putting it …
