I created this Lacy Solomon’s Grid Scarf pattern with the intention to introduce another way to work the Solomon’s Knot. Making it into a grid by using double crochet stitches, this makes the scarf a lot more stable than the traditional Solomon’s Knot stitch does. …
The Learn Tunisian Crochet CAL is here! I worked super hard to get 12 Tunisian squares typed up and videoed for you to learn all about Tunisian Crochet! This is something that I have been thinking about for quite a while and now that it’s …
Today’s stitch is the Tunisian Wide Ribs Stitch and it is our last one! I cannot believe we are about to wrap this up! After this stitch, we will put a border around each one and join with the zig-zag stitch that Helen provided a tutorial for, here.
We will then do a simple border (of your choice!) and it will all be done! I cannot wait to see all of the pretty blankets in our Facebook Group!
How to Crochet the Tunisian Wide Ribs Stitch
Chain a multiple of 4 plus 2 (for edge stitches) and complete a foundation row.
The Wide Ribs looks like knitted cuffs but is not stretchy. It is worked with TKS and TPS. You will work 2 TPS followed by 2 TKS for each row, building columns.
Materials List:
Note: this list contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!
I used:
Worsted/Aran/#4 weight yarn–Brava Worsted by Knit Picks in Cornflower, Tidepool, Alfalfa, and mint. I was able to get 2 squares out of each skein. As there are 12 squares, if you are using the same yarn, you will need 3 of each. I also used Brava Worsted Speckle in Tidal for borders and joining.
To work this swatch with me, I recommend doing at least 4″ x 4″ square to learn the stitch before doing a pattern. For the CAL, you will need to do this for 12″ x 12″ square. This stitch has a multiple of 4+2; you can simply crochet the multiple of stitches until you reach the desired measurement.
Complete a normal foundation row–you can find instructions for this in the Introduction to Tunisian post, here.
Row 1
F: Crochet a row of [2TKS and 2 TPS], end with a left edge stitch as normal.
R: Normal return pass
Row 2
Repeat row 1 working both F and R passes.
Bind off
You can do this with a 6.5mm regular crochet hook if you prefer—with the starting loop on your hook, *[insert your hook in the next st as to work a TKS and pull a loop thru all loops on the hook] 2 times, [insert your hook as to work a TPS in the next st and pull a loop thru all loops on the hook] 2 times; rep from * to edge st; insert hook into edge st and pull loop thru all loops on the hook. FO. Weave in ends.
Welcome back to another Tunisian tutorial: the Tunisian Basket Weave Stitch. This stitch is deceptively easy to do but does require you to pay more attention to your repeats. Both rows and stitch counts. You only need to know how to do the TSS and …
We’re getting close to the end with today’s stitch: the Tunisian Crossed Stitch. I love the pattern this creates and there are many ways you can “shake” up this stitch. To get started though, I want to keep it simple! How to Crochet the Tunisian …
Today’s Tunisian stitch is the Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch. This is also known as the Seed Stitch. I am in love with the texture on this one! It looks hard to do but it is super easy! You already know the two stitches you need to know by now–TSS and TPS! I’m itching to design something bigger with this stitch!
Let’s get down to it.
How To Work The Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch
The Honeycomb Stitch combines TSS and TPS, worked only in front bars. The stitches are offset from the previous row. You will need to chain an even number of stitches. A normal return pass and normal edge stitch are also worked on this one.
Details
After you complete the normal foundation row, your first stitch for the first row of of the pattern is to work a TSS in the first bar, then work a TPS in the next bar; repeat that process until you get to the edge stitch; complete a normal edge stitch and a normal return.
For the next row, simply change it up: start with a TPS in the first bar, then do a TSS in the next bar; repeat that process to the end, completing a normal edge stitch and a normal return.
Materials List:
Note: this list contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!
I used:
Worsted/Aran/#4 weight yarn–Brava Worsted by Knit Picks in Cornflower, Tidepool, Alfalfa, and mint. I was able to get 2 squares out of each skein. As there are 12 squares, if you are using the same yarn, you will need 3 of each. I also used Brava Worsted Speckle in Tidal for borders and joining.
To work this swatch with me, I recommend doing at least 4″ x 4″ square to learn the stitch before doing a pattern. For the CAL, you will need to do this for 12″ x 12″ square. This stitch does not have a multiple, you can simply crochet any number of stitches until you reach the desired measurement.
Complete a normal foundation row–you can find instructions for this in the Introduction to Tunisian post, here.
Row 1
Row 1, Forward Pass: Crochet alternately [1 TSS and 1 TPS], end with normal edge stitch
Row 1, Return Pass: Complete a normal return pass (see the introduction post, here)
Row 2
Row 2, Forward Pass: Crochet a row of [1 TPS and 1 TSS], end with normal edge stitch. The TPS are offset to the previous row.
Row 2, Return Pass: Complete a normal return pass.
Moving Forward
Row 3 and onwards: Repeat rows 1 and 2, both passes.
Bind off: keep with the same pattern/repeat for binding off.
Welcome back to another Tunisian Stitch tutorial: the Tunisian Smock Stitch. This is a super gorgeous stitch that looks a bit like lattice-work. In fact, I’m pretty sure that it’s also known as the Lattice Stitch. To work the Smock Stitch, you will need to …
Let’s learn how to do the Tunisian Double Crochet Stitch (TDCS). Last time, we learned all about the THDCS and it was a little different than we’re used to. The TDCS goes back to the normal way of working a normal foundation row first, then …
Today we are learning all about the Tunisian Half-Double Crochet Stitch (THDCS)! I really love the look and texture of this stitch! Pay close attention though, this stitch starts out differently than we have been doing. The foundation row is what gets you started!
Foundation Row
To work the THDCS, you will work a “modified” foundation row by yarning over before inserting your hook into each chain and pulling up a loop. This will result in a lot of loops on your hook, so make sure you give yourself enough room! You will then chain 1 for the return and instead of pulling thru just 2 loops, you’re going to yo, pull thru 3 loops–like a waltz. Pull thru 3 loops all the way until you only have 1 loop left on your hook.
Regular Rows
To work the next rows, you can ch1 at the beginning (also something we don’t normally do!) or you can omit that to keep the right edge a little tighter, the choice is yours. *Yo, insert hook behind the next vertical bar and the next bar that appears to be leaning away from it, yo and pull up a loop; rep from * until you reach the edge stitch: yo, insert into 2 loops of the left edge stitch, yo, pull up a loop.
The return pass is to chain 1, yo, pull thru 3 loops all the way down!
Materials List:
Note: this list contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you!
I used:
Worsted/Aran/#4 weight yarn–Brava Worsted by Knit Picks in Cornflower, Tidepool, Alfalfa, and mint. I was able to get 2 squares out of each skein. As there are 12 squares, if you are using the same yarn, you will need 3 of each. I also used Brava Worsted Speckle in Tidal for borders and joining.
To work this swatch with me, I recommend doing at least 4″ x 4″ square to learn the stitch before doing a pattern. For the CAL, you will need to do this for 12″ x 12″ square. This stitch does not have a multiple, you can simply crochet any number of stitches until you reach the desired measurement.
Complete a foundation row per the instructions above.
Row 1, Forward Pass: Crochet a row of THDCS (see above), end with yo, insert into edge stitch, pull up a loop.
Row 1, Return Pass: Ch1, yo, pull thru 3 loops until you have only 1 loop left.
Row 2 and onward: Complete the instructions for row 1 both forward and return passes.
Here we are again, with another stitch: the Tunisian Full Stitch (TFS). This stitch is super quick and easy to do! It does curl at the top and bottom quite a bit, but blocking will fix this right up! To work the Tunisian Full Stitch …