The Halloween Pumpkin Placemat is actually one that I designed well over a year ago. Tested last year, I felt we were cutting it a little fine to release for Halloween. So I waited until this year. And the timing worked out perfectly! I get …
Tag: home decor
I needed a handy storage basket so why not write it up as a free pattern? We had recently had a log burner put in and I needed something pretty to keep the logs in. I had also just gotten my first order of Hoooked Zpagetti and was looking for a good project to try it out with.
Yes, I was really late to the recycled jersey / t-shirt yarn party! I have been inspired by Knitz and Purlz and I have been loving seeing her jersey yarn and watching her create some gorgeous things. Every time I saw one of her posts it reminded me to make a storage basket.
Originally I wasn’t going to write this pattern up but I put a photo on IG and some people said they would love to check the pattern out. So it has waited for a couple of months (or 4!) until I could get it written up and tested properly.
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I liked the storage basket so much I made another one in white for my bathroom. It would also make a great gift basket for someone filled with toiletries or yarn!
If you would like an ad free pdf version of this pattern you can find it in all of the usual places:
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- 60-70 yards of super chunky yarn – I suggest Paintbox recycled jersey T-shirt yarn or Hoooked Zpagetti solid
- 12 or 15mm
- Stitch markers (optional)
- Tapestry needle
Gauge is not important for this project
Using a 12mm hook my basket was 6.5” in diameter by 4” in height
Using a 15mm hook my basket was 10.5” in diameter by 6.5” in height – my testers found that when they did one of each they nested perfectly!
- sc – single crochet
- fpdc – front post double crochet
- Bpdc – back post double crochet
- Blo – back loop only
- YO—yarn over
- FO—fasten off
-  – everything noted between these is worked into the same st
- Written in US terms.
- Any ch stitches at the beginning do count as a st unless otherwise stated.
- The stitch count is in parenthesis at the end of each row.
- You must turn as indicated to keep the structure of the basket sturdy
You can find our video tutorial on the fpdc at https://youtu.be/nmWe76Y4v08 – right handed version
https://youtu.be/biHxNSKo5Vw – left handed version
For the bpdc visit https://youtu.be/hTPKAPQblkE
Round 1 – In a magic ring sc 6 OR ch3, ss into first ch, sc6 into center. SS to join (6)
Round 2 – Ch1, 2sc in each st around. SS to join (12)
Round 3 – Ch1, sc in the first st, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st*. Rep from * to * around. SS to join (18)
Round 4 – Ch1, sc in the first 2sts, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next 2 sts, 2sc in the next st*. Rep from * to * around. SS to join (24)
Round 5 – Ch1, sc in the first 3sts, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st*. Rep from * to * around. SS to join (30)
Round 6 – Ch1, sc in the first 4sts, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st*. Rep from * to * around. SS to join (36)
Round 7 – Ch1, sc in the first 5sts, 2sc in the next st, *sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st*. Rep from * to * around. SS to join (42)
Round 8 – Ch1, hdc blo in each st around. SS to join (42)
Let’s start the textured section!
Round 9 – Alt ch3, [dc, ch1, 2dc] in the same st, sk2, fpdc in the next st, *sk2, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next st. sk2, fpdc in the next st*. Rep from * to * to end of round. SS to join (7 shells and 7 fpdc)
Round 10 – Ch1 , turn, bpdc around the last stitch you made in the previous round, *in the next ch1 sp (2dc, ch1, 2dc), sk the next 2 sts, bpdc around the post of the next dc *
Rep from * to *. SS to join (7 shells and 7 bpdc)
Round 11 – Ch1 , turn, fpdc around the last stitch you made in the previous round, *in the next ch1 sp (2dc, ch1, 2dc), sk the next 2 sts, fpdc around the post of the next dc *
Rep from * to *. SS to join (7 shells and 7 bpdc)
Rounds 12 – onwards – repeat rounds 10 and 11 until your basket is almost as tall as you
would like (I repeated round 10 once only)
Note: the taller this one gets the less stable it appears because of the stitches used.
Round 13 – ch1, hdc in each st and ch1 space around. SS to join (42)
Round 14 – With the outside facing you, you have a choice as to how to finish this one off:
- ss in each stitch around (42) OR
- crab stitch in each st around if you feel like your yarn needs a little bit more stability.
FO and weave in ends.
And voila! A gorgeous storage basket for your home!
Bring on Spring Event
On Friday 26th February 2021 we offered this pattern as a free pdf as part of the Bring on Spring event hosted by Through The Loop Yarn Craft. If you would like to see what other patterns were included in this event and get some inspiration you can click the button below!
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Today we are introducing you to the Fireside Cottage Stocking and it is a free pattern below.
First, a little more info about the Stocking!
Did you know that this is the second stocking pattern that we have? Last year we released the Robin Stocking as part of our Robin Richard Christmas Collection. The collection also features a gingham look afghan and a gorgeous tree skirt! You really should check these patterns out.
I love our stocking patterns. They have a modern twist on a very classical look. The style of the stocking is quite traditional. But the stitches and stitch combo we use are most definitely not! I have made almost all of my stockings in Caron Simply Soft. I realise that for some this is not their favourite yarn, but I have not really experienced the untwisting of the fibres or any of the issues that some people have complained of. For me this yarn in autumn red and cream just works up fabulously and is perfect for our Fireside Cottage Stocking.
There is a reassuring weight to these stockings which help it maintain its shape and looks just fantastic!
The perfect gift
Do you find it easy thinking of that perfect Christmas gift for everyone you usually gift to? The Fireside Cottage Stocking is also the perfect gift for anyone who you consider difficult to buy for. Make them a stocking, add a gift card or some bathroom items (deodorants, aftershave etc) to create a great gift.
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Shall we get started?
Firstly, if you would like an ad free pdf of this pattern, with additional figure photographs, you can find the links below.
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- #4 worsted weight yarn – I used 1 skein of each of the two colours you choose in Caron simply soft or in Stylecraft.
- 5mm hook
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
Gauge and sizing:
Gauge is not essential here as long as you are consistent, however for our stockings the gauge was 15 sc and 12 rows = 4×4” square.
Our stocking measures 22.5” long (toe to top), 7.5” wide.
- Ch(s) – chain(s)
- St(s) – Stitch(es)
- Rep – Repeat
- Fhdc—foundation half-double crochet
- Scblo—single crochet back loop only
- Sc – single crochet
- Hdc – Half=double crochet
- Ss – slip stitch
- Sk – skip
- Dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
- Ns—N stitch
- FO—fasten off
Written in US terms
- Ch1 or 2 does not count as a stitch
- Pay attention to stitch placement and read the instructions fully
- Use the stitch markers on this one!
If you are new to the foundation stitches and want to give them a try then here is our right handed YouTube Tutorial below.
You can also find out left handed tutorial here.
N Stitch: This is a stitch that most people have not used before. This actually surprises me because it is a lovely stitch with a lot of texture and is not as difficult as it looks! Below is the right-handed tutorial but you can also find the left handed tutorial here.
The N stitch is worked over two stitches. To work the N stitch, sk next st, hdc in next st, going back to missed stitch, insert hook into front loop of missed stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull thru one loop only; YO, insert hook into stitch with the hdc and pull up a loop, YO and pull thru all loops on the hook.
DC2Tog: Wrap yarn around hook, insert hook into next st, wrap yarn around hook and pull through, wrap yarn around hook and pull through 2 loops on hook, wrap yarn around hook and insert into next stitch, wrap yarn around hook and pull through, wrap yarn around hook and pull through 2 loops, wrap yarn around hook and pull through remaining loops on hook.
To make the boot:
Row 1— FHDC 44 or chain 46 and hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across
Row 2— Ch1, turn. NS across (see special stitches)
Row 3— Ch1, turn. Sc in 1st st and in each across
Row 4-40— Repeat rows 2 and 3 (NS even rows, sc odd rows)
Row 41— Ch1, turn. Hdc in 1st st and across
Step 1: Fold in half, right sides together, matching top row to bottom row and sew those rows together by either whip stitch or slip stitch join.
To make the heel:
Row 1— Grab the color you want for both your heel and toe.
Find the seam (this is the back of your work).
With RIGHT SIDE facing, from the seam, counting to the right side of it, count out 10 stitches. Attach yarn at the 10th spot and sc in the same stitch and in the next 19 sts
Row 2– Ch1, turn. Sc in first st and in the next 12 sts.
Row 3— Ch1, turn. Sc in the first st and in the next 6 sts.
Row 4— Ch1, turn. Sc in the first st and in the next 6 sts, then sc in the first unworked sc below.
Note:This is the next unworked sc from row 1 of the heel. At this point your work to start to curve, which is what we want!
Row 5— Ch1, turn. Sc in the first st and in the next 7 sts, sc in the next available sc below (9)
Row 6— Ch1, turn. Sc in the first st and in the next 8 sts, sc in the next available sc below (10)
Rows 7-15— Continue this pattern until you no longer have single crochets to work. FO
To make the foot:
With the main body color, attach yarn by folding the heel in half and attaching at the center-most point – this should be the 10th stitch along:
Row 1— Ch1, hdc until you get to the last sc of the heel, hdc2tog which should bring you to the next stitch after the heel. Hdc around to the other side of the heel, hdc2tog up the side of the heel as you did on the other side. Continue to hdc in the last 9 sts, ss to join to first hdc
Row 2-– Ch1, hdc in same as join, hdc to the corner, hdc2tog, hdc to the other corner, hdc2tog, hdc to the end. Ss to top of first hdc
Row 3— Ch1, hdc in same as join, hdc around (no more decreasing), ss to first hdc to joi
Row 4-12— Ch1, hdc in each st around. FO
To make the toe:
Grab your heel/toe color yarn and attach anywhere.
Rnd 1— Ch1, sc in the first st and in each around, don’t join. Find the ch1 and sc in it, place a stitch marker on this stitch
Rnd 2— We are now working in continuous rounds. Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, *sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around, finish out the round (until you get to the stitch marker) with sc’s
Rnd 3— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in each stitch around.
Rnd 4— Remove stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog, *sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around, finishing out the round with sc’s.
Rnd 5— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in each stitch around.
Rnd 6— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog, *sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around, finishing out with sc’s
You are doing well – keep going!!
Rnd 7— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in each st around.
Rnd 8— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc in the next st and in the next st, sc2tog, *sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * around, finishing out with sc’s
Rnd 9— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, replace the stitch marker in the new stitch, sc2tog, *sc in next st, sc2tog; rep from * around, finish out with sc’s
Rnd 10— Remove the stitch marker, sc in the marked stitch, don’t replace the stitch marker.
Rnd 11 Onwards: We are now single crocheting two together until you feel like stopping to sew the tip closed. Sew up the hole and weave in ends.
To make the cuff:
You can use either color or another accent color for the cuff:
Row 1— Ch 15. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across
Row 2— Ch1, turn Scblo across
Row 3— Rep row 2. You can either fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing or you can use your hook and slip stitch the ends together to join. You need to make this to fit snugly around the top of the stocking.
Assembly of the cuff to your Fireside Cottage Stocking:
Round 1 With the cuff, place it over the stocking (right side facing you) lining up the top edges. Attach yarn at the seams and single crochet through both the cuff and the stocking edges to join them. It’s ok if you have to put two stitches in the stocking (the cuff is larger by a small amount to fit over the stocking) just make sure you cannot see that on the outside, and make sure you end up with a multiple of 3 stitches. Join.
Making the hanging loop:
Ch 15, Hdc in 2nd chain from hook and each ch across. Fasten off leaving long tail.
Attach it using the tail, to the seam on the inside of the stocking, sewing the ends next to each other.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
And there you have it – your own Fireside Cottage Stocking!
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Mary Maxim Countdown to Christmas event – Free pdf until 7th January 2021!
You can get the Fireside Cottage Stocking as a free pdf from our featured day on Mary Maxim’s Countdown to Christmas event until 7th January. Simply click on the download the free pdf button below and use the code ‘COUNTDOWN‘ in our Ravelry listing!
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