The Highland Neamh Cocoon Cardigan – Free pattern
We are super excited to be officially releasing the Highland Neamh Cocoon Cardigan.
I had been wanting to create a cocoon cardigan design for a few months before finally getting to sit and design this one! What’s not to love about a good cocoon cardigan? They are really comfortable, easy to customise if you want to add a loop and button and are great for all shapes, sizes and ages!
It was so hard finishing up some of the other projects and commitments I had before getting my hook out for this one. Boy, I am so pleased that I got to do it and actually I am thankful for the delay because it allowed me to have a really good think about the texture that I wanted, the yarn and the specifics of the pattern. By the time I sat down to prototype this one I already had the pattern pretty much written in my head. How often does that happen?
A Little Help!
The Highland Neamh Cocoon Cardigan is our first real go at a garment. I have to confess I did enlist the help of Susanna from Fosbas Designs for the sleeves on this one! She gave me an hour of her time and shared some of her knowledge with me which made this project a joy to work on!
Our Testers were a joy to work with!
Did you see my instagram post where I gave you a sneak peak at the design and some of the testers makes? They are gorgeous!! And yes, I did have a little yarn envy going on. If you didn’t see them then here is a sample them! Aren’t they fantastic!! As a designer one of the best things for me is seeing someone take my pattern and make something beautiful with it.
An easy cocoon cardigan pattern
This pattern isn’t just my first garment design, it is also a great pattern for people who may have never crocheted a garment before! I have made it as easy as I can to both follow and create this one. The sleeves are really simple which also adds to the comfortableness of the project, and there is more … This pattern doesn’t just come with optional sleeves, but also three lengths of sleeve!
How will you customise your own?
Most cocoon cardigans or shrugs do not include sleeves. For this reason the sleeves are an added extra on the PDF version of this pattern. But rest assured this pattern is just as beautiful without the longer sleeves and will look great with the cuff to finish it off and a long sleeved top underneath! Below is a pic of my daughter modelling the plain version from the modelled photos with shorter sleeves. I think the shorter sleeve option is actually adorable and still makes a great layering piece!
You can purchase an ad free PDF in our shops which includes all of the sleeve options:
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase from these links, we get a small percentage of the sale, at no extra cost to you and this helps us keep the blog going!
- I used approximately 1100 yards #5 weight yarn for the size large in Hayfield Spirit Chunky. You will need approximately 900 – 1700 yards depending on the size you want to make.
- 6.5 mm hook
- Stitch markers (optional)
- Tapestry needle
- Tape measure
Gauge – is not super important as long as you measure your starting row and make sure it is the right length and a multiple of 2.
- Written for adult s/m, l/xl, 2x/3x and 4x/5x
- Your main panel will work out as approximately:
- s/m – 38’’ x 29’’
- l/xl – 43’’ x 31’’
- 2x / 3x – 48’’ x 33’’
- 4x /5x – 53’’ x 35’’
- Ss – slip stitch
- Alt dc – alternate double crochet
- fdc – foundation double crochet
- dc–double crochet
- X St – cross stitch
- FPDC – front post double crochet
- BPDC – back post double crochet
- YO—yarn over
- FO—fasten off
- RS / WS – Right side / Wrong side
- Written in US terms.
- Ch stitches at the beginning do count as a st.
- The alternate double crochet is an alternative to the ch3 starts. There are a few ways of doing this but I tend to use a sc and a ch1 (you can also use a sc and ch2 or stack two sc stitches). If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with the alt dc you can simply ch3 to start the row.
- If you cannot get gauge for this project you will need to ensure that your starting row is in multiple of 2 (so that it measures 38’’ (43’’/48’’/53’’).
- Similarily with the height of your panel, it is fine for it to be a little bigger. So if you find that you are under on the height add another repeat before assembling the cardigan. Better to have a longer cardigan than a shorter one!
Row 1 (RS) – Fdc 114 (130, 144, 160) OR Ch 116 (132, 146, 162) Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch around. Turn.
Row 2 (WS) – Alt dc in the first st (to work this you do a sc and ch2 in the first st), sk the next st, dc in the next st, working behind this st dc in the skipped st (this creates your first X st)
Continue to X St along until you have 1 st left, dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 3 (RS) – (Alt dc, ch1) in first st, *sk next st, (dc and ch1) between the two posts of the X St from the previous round*
Rep from * to * along, ending with a ch1. (see diagram below) After you have worked the last X st from the previous row dc in the last st. Turn
Row 4 (WS) – Alt dc in first st.
Note: for this row you will be working into the ch1 spaces and not the top of the dc’s from the previous row (with the exception being the first and last stitches of the row!).
Sk the first ch1sp and dc in the next ch1 sp, working behind this stitch dc into the skipped ch1 sp (first X st made).
To create each X st after this initial one, dc in the next unworked ch1 sp, working behind the last st made dc into the previous ch1 sp.
Note: the second stitch of the X st will share the ch1 sp with the previous X st. and will mirror how row 2 works with row 3. This will keep your stitch counts correct. (See pattern notes)
Continue the X st in every ch1 sp across, dc in the alt dc from the previous row.
For those of you who prefer diagrams, rows 2-4 will sit as follows:
Row 5 – Alt Dc in first st, DC in each st around. Turn.
Rows 6 – onwards
Repeat rows 2-5 12 (13, 15, 16) more times.
FO and weave in ends
Step 1: To assemble your cardigan, fold it in half so that the foundation row (or chain row) and the last row you worked are together at the bottom with right sides facing.
Step 2: From the top mark your armholes. You will need to measure down 6’’ (7’’/8’’/8.5’’) as per the figure photo below.
Do this on both sides.
Step 3: Whip stitch from the bottom edge (remember, this is where your foundation row and last row worked meet) up to your stitch marker.
FO and weave in ends.
Repeat this step for the other side
Ribbing around your cardigan
Open out your cardigan and turn it the right way out so that the RS is on the outside.
Round 1: With RS facing, attach your yarn to any stitch around the bottom of your cardigan.
DC in each st around making sure that you have an even number of stitches when you have finished. SS to join Do not turn.
Round 2: ch1, fpdc around the first st, bpdc around the next, *fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st.* Rep from * to * around. SS to join. Do not turn.
Rounds 3-5 (6/7/8) ch1, *fpdc around the fpdc from the previous round, bpdc around the bpdc from the previous round* Rep from * to * around. SS to join. Do not turn.
FO and sew in ends.
NOTE: if you would like a narrower sleeve than the armhole is allowing for sew up the seam a little further to reduce the size of the arm hole at this stage. Now it is all assembled this should be easier to work out by trying it on.
To have a short sleeve all you need to do here is add the cuff. Do this around both arms.
Round 1 – With right side facing, attach the yarn to the sleeve just above where you sewed the panel to create the arm hole.
Dc evenly around the arm hole (I suggest at least 2 dcs per stitch from the previous row). For all sizes make sure you have an even number of stitches around. SS to join. Do not turn.
Round 2 – Ch1, fpdc in first st, bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st* around. Ss to first fpdc to join. Do not turn.
Round 3 – 5 Repeat round 2
FO and sew in ends.
For the other sleeve options you will need to purchase the ad free pdf