Are you an avid reader? Is someone you know? If so, you can’t go wrong with making a bookmark. My daughter seems to think books are like WIPs – it’s fine to have 6 books on the go! It drives me bonkers just thinking about …
The Paige Mod Scarf is a women’s textured scarf pattern that is just beautiful and so cosy to wear! The shape of it means that it works up quickly and uses only 1 mandala cake! Together these mean that this pattern is a great stash …
Say hello to the Art Square. This one is the square for April in my 2022 Corner to Corner CAL.
April 15th is World Art Day. It was started in 2019 to celebrate fine art – but let’s face it, there are so many forms of art that are recognised and appreciated today!
If you have never worked corner to corner before, don’t worry …. I have a full and comprehensive mini course which includes a free complete pattern. Learn how to Corner to Corner here.
Fun fact – April 15th is Leonardo de Vinci’s birthday!
Much like with music (that was celebrated in my March’s square) art traverses all societies, cultures and abilities. It encourages discussion, appreciation and understanding of others.
It is said that ‘furthering the development of art also furthers our means to achieve a free and peaceful world.’
As soon as I found that World Art Day was celebrated in April I knew that was the day I would represent in my square! The difficult thing was deciding what to create – an easel? A paint tray? A representation of a famous piece of art?
At only 25 x 25 squares the scope of what I could accurately reflect was limited. I also wanted it to be fairly easy for beginners with not too many colour changes or ends to weave in but still fun and identifiable!
What do you think … Did I manage it?
If you would prefer to have the pdf pattern for this square you can find it in the following places:
For this square you will need :
Sizing: Gauge does not matter as long as you are consistent. If you use HDC your block will be approximately 12” square depending on tension. If you opt for DC blocks then you will find that it will typically be between 16-18″
To work out how much yarn you will need you will need to do a sample swatch with the stitch you intend to use (HDC or DC) and then measure how much yarn you used per stitch multiplying that by the number of stitches of that color and adding some for the tails to be worked in at the end.
Color charts with stitch totals are listed under the graph below.
↙ Row 1: (purple) x 1 (1 square)
↗ Row 2: (purple) x 2 (2 squares)
↙ Row 3: (purple) x 3 (3 squares)
↗ Row 4: (purple) x 4 (4 squares)
↙ Row 5: (purple) x 4, (blue) x 1 (5 squares)
↗ Row 6: (blue) x 2, (purple) x 4 (6 squares)
↙ Row 7: (purple) x 4, (blue) x 3 (7 squares)
↗ Row 8: (blue) x 4, (purple) x 4 (8 squares)
↙ Row 9: (purple) x 4, (blue) x 5 (9 squares)
↗ Row 10: (green) x 1, (blue) x 5, (purple) x 4 (10 squares)
↙ Row 11: (purple) x 4, (blue) x 5, (green) x 2 (11 squares)
↗ Row 12: (green) x 3, (blue) x 5, (purple) x 3, (orange) x 1 (12 squares)
↙ Row 13: (orange) x 2, (purple) x 2, (blue) x 5, (green) x 4 (13 squares)
↗ Row 14: (red) x 1, (green) x 4, (blue) x 6, (yellow) x 2, (orange) x 1 (14 squares)
↙ Row 15: (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 1, (blue) x 6, (green) x 4, (red) x 2 (15 squares)
↗ Row 16: (red) x 3, (green) x 4, (blue) x 6, (White) x 2, (purple) x 1 (16 squares)
↙ Row 17: (White) x 3, (blue) x 6, (green) x 4, (red) x 4 (17 squares)
↗ Row 18: (grey) x 1, (red) x 4, (green) x 4, (blue) x 5, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 3 (18 squares)
↙ Row 19: (White) x 3, (yellow) x 2, (blue) x 4, (green) x 4, (red) x 4, (grey) x 2 (19 squares)
↗ Row 20: (grey) x 3, (red) x 4, (green) x 4, (blue) x 3, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 4 (20 squares)
↙ Row 21: (White) x 4, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (blue) x 2, (green) x 4, (red) x 4, (grey) x 3, (burgundy) x 1 (21 squares)
↗ Row 22: (burgundy) x 2, (grey) x 3, (red) x 4, (green) x 4, (blue) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 4 (22 squares)
↙ Row 23: (White) x 5, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 3, (green) x 4, (red) x 4, (grey) x 3, (burgundy) x 3 (23 squares)
↗ Row 24: (burgundy) x 4, (grey) x 3, (red) x 3, (yellow) x 1, (green) x 4, (yellow) x 3, (blue) x 1, (White) x 5 (24 squares)
↙ Row 25: (White) x 5, (blue) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 1, (green) x 4, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (red) x 2, (grey) x 3, (burgundy) x 5 (25 squares)
Corner at both sides
↗ Row 26: (burgundy) x 5, (grey) x 3, (red) x 1, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (green) x 4, (White) x 2, (blue) x 1, (White) x 5 (24 squares)
↙ Row 27: (White) x 7, (green) x 5, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (grey) x 3, (burgundy) x 5 (23 squares)
↗ Row 28: (burgundy) x 5, (grey) x 3, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (green) x 4, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 6 (22 squares)
↙ Row 29: (White) x 5, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (green) x 3, (red) x 1, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (grey) x 3, (burgundy) x 5 (21 squares)
↗ Row 30: (burgundy) x 5, (grey) x 4, (red) x 2, (green) x 2, (orange) x 2, (White) x 5 (20 squares)
↙ Row 31: (White) x 4, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (green) x 1, (White) x 1, (red) x 1, (grey) x 4, (burgundy) x 5 (19 squares)
↗ Row 32: (burgundy) x 5, (grey) x 4, (White) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 3 (18 squares)
↙ Row 33: (White) x 2, (green) x 1, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 2, (grey) x 4, (burgundy) x 5 (17 squares)
↗ Row 34: (burgundy) x 5, (grey) x 3, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 3, (yellow) x 1, (green) x 1, (White) x 2 (16 squares)
↙ Row 35: (White) x 1, (green) x 2, (White) x 3, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (grey) x 2, (burgundy) x 5 (15 squares)
↗ Row 36: (burgundy) x 4, (yellow) x 1, (grey) x 1, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 5, (green) x 1 (14 squares)
↙ Row 37: (White) x 5, (orange) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 1, (orange) x 1, (burgundy) x 3 (13 squares)
↗ Row 38: (burgundy) x 2, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (White) x 1, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (grey) x 1, (White) x 4 (12 squares)
↙ Row 39: (White) x 3, (grey) x 2, (White) x 2, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (burgundy) x 1 (11 squares)
↗ Row 40: (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 2, (White) x 3, (grey) x 1, (White) x 3 (10 squares)
↙ Row 41: (White) x 6, (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (yellow) x 1 (9 squares)
↗ Row 42: (yellow) x 1, (orange) x 1, (burgundy) x 1, (White) x 5 (8 squares)
↙ Row 43: (White) x 4, (burgundy) x 2, (yellow) x 1 (7 squares)
↗ Row 44: (White) x 1, (burgundy) x 1, (White) x 4 (6 squares)
↙ Row 45: (White) x 5 (5 squares)
↗ Row 46: (White) x 4 (4 squares)
↙ Row 47: (White) x 3 (3 squares)
↗ Row 48: (White) x 2 (2 squares)
↙ Row 49: (White) x 1 (1 square)
Today I am bringing to you 10 free beginner crochet patterns that are also perfect stash busters. Bonus!!! You can get ALL of these patterns as free pdf downloads using the special coupon code between 22nd and 28th February 2022. How do I get my …
Today we release our Kate Coffee Beanie Cozy (or CBC as we refer to them). It uses the same gorgeous and timeless stitch combo that is in all of our Kate designs. It is a great collection for girls of all ages from children to …
The Richard wrist warmers (named after my very supportive husband) are a more masculine version of our Susan Wrist warmers. These men’s wrist warmers are a great gift idea, and a good way to use your scraps or bust that stash!
Where the Susan Wrist warmers uses the sedge stitch the Richard wrist warmers use the crunch stitch. We released the pattern for those over a year ago now. You can find the free pattern for those here or by clicking the photo at the bottom of this page.
These men’s wrist warmers are constructed in exactly the same way but instead of using the sedge stitch I went for a more masculine looking crunch stitch.
Don’t get me wrong, they the Susan and Richard wrist warmers are unisex really – I just wanted a reason to try them out with a different stitch LOL.
You may recall, if you have read about the Susan version, that I made the Susan version with the intention of gifting them to the ladies that worked for my husband last Christmas. They got theirs and loved them. The men then got jealous and asked to try on their gifts. They loved how they felt and that they could still use their phones etc whilst wearing them. Dan and Alex asked me to make them a pair but make them look a ‘bit more manly’ than the pink and gold versions. They ‘advised’ of their favourite colours to wear and sent me on my merry way to get my hooks out again. Luckily, the local yarn store was 2 minutes from the office and a 5 minute walk from home.
So yes, the Richard wrist warmers have been waiting their turn for release since December last year!
What I can unequivocally say is that both lads are still wearing their wrist warmers and they still look great after a year and despite Dan having 2 small children at home!
I believe that Sara also made a few pairs of these last year as gifts for her brothers and other family members which went down a treat.
As always, you can find a very reasonably priced pdf version of this pattern in all of our stores:
Ravelry here
Our shop here
Etsy here
Lovecrafts here
If you prefer video tutorials instead of written patterns Sara recorded a full video on how to make these men’s wrist warmers on our YouTube Channel. The left handed version will go up very soon!
Not important for this project as you create the length required with your chains and work to the desired width.
My finished gloves were 8.25’’ tall and 4’’ wide and fit a medium man’s hand. You will need a couple of measurements to get the perfect fit (although I have given a rough guide below). If you can get them you will need these three measurements:
Note: these wrist-warmers are made as a rectangle and then the sides sewn together with a gap for the thumb.
Row 1 Ch in multiples of 2 until you get the desired length of the wrist-warmer minus 1.5’’ (this is made up with the cuff later). Then ch an additional 1. Sc in second ch from hook and each st across.
OR
Fsc in multiples of 2 until you get the desired length minus 1.5’’.
I fsc 32 to start (but I would do 34 or 36 for a large size and 28 or 30 for a small if you don’t have the measurements you need)
Row 2 Turn. Alt ch2 in first st (this is made up of a sc and a ch) Ss in next st, *hdc in next st, ss in next st* along.
Note: you will end with a ss.
Row 3-32 Repeat row 2 until work is wide enough to go around the knuckles. If your knuckle length is 4’’, your work needs to be 8’’ tall.
For example, to get a 4’’ width I made mine measure 8’’ tall as I worked it. You will then turn the finished rectangle on its side to create the finished item!
Do not fasten off.
Turn your rectangle 90 degrees.
Using a stitch marker mark the measurement from the top of the wrist-warmer to where the thumb starts.
Mark where the thumb finishes with another stitch marker (see pic below).
SS or sew from the top to the first marker.
SS or sew from the second stitch marker to the bottom. Do not FO
Round 1 Ch1, sc an even number of stitches evenly around the bottom of the glove. SS to join
Note: be careful not to sc too few as this will make the gap for getting you hand in smaller! I find one sc for each row works well.
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as a dc), DC in each stitch around. SS to join.
For Round 3 Ch1, *FPDC around the first stitch, BPDC around the next st* around SS to join
Round 4 Repeat round 3.
Round 5 Repeat round 3.
FO, weave in ends.
