This free washcloth crochet pattern uses some beautiful simple cabling techniques to create a stunning textured washcloth. One of the things that I love about crochet is how a small handful of basic stitches can create such beautiful textures just through the way they are …
Today we are providing you with an introduction to the crunch stitch. Have you seen the Crunch stitch before? What projects have you used it in? The crunch stitch is a great stitch for a beginner or a more confident crocheter. It has a fabulous …
I have the perfect pattern and gift idea for Mother’s Day! It’s the Farmhouse Spa Set pattern designed by yours truly. This pattern even comes with the instructions to make the basket to hold it all.
Oh, just so you’re aware, this post may contain affiliate links. Should you buy something from one of our links, we get a small percentage of the sale, at no extra cost to you. This helps us keep the blog going!
I scoured my brain for an idea for what to give my mother and my mother-in-law for Mother’s Day. I’ve given plants and pre-set up baskets of just…stuff, but this year, I wanted something more personal.
The washcloth is a lightly textured cloth using the N Stitch. Never heard of it? I found it on chance and saw that no one was using it! I just knew it would be great for a washcloth!
Three face scrubbies are the magic number here, one in each of the three colors you will pick to work up this pattern. They are well textured but still ultra soft, thanks to the quality cotton yarn I used–Lily Sugar ‘n Cream.
Included in the instructions is a soap saver. What’s that?! It’s this neat little baggy with a mesh body that you can place your favorite bar of soap into. This gives great exfoliation and keeps your bar of soap in it’s best form. Simply hang in the shower or tub to drip dry.
Did I mention this pattern has a collection of FIVE patterns? Here’s the 4th in this spa set: a pouf! They look like they might be difficult to make but when you read how to do it, you will laugh at yourself, I did. You will get rich lather (depending on soap) and soft yet exfoliating results using this pouf. Hang in the shower or tub to drip dry.
Finally, you need a basket to put this all in, especially if you’re making it as a gift for someone! I include a pattern to make a small-medium sized basket to display everything in. You will just need some jumbo yarn and a big fat hook like a size P/Q hook. It works up super fast and easy!
Yep, even the basket. I chose Bernat Maker Big to make the basket out of, which is 50% cotton and 50% nylon. Easy care makes this project even better!
Free on my blog however, you may purchase an ad-free version on my Ravelry store.
To continue on with the pattern, scroll down!
You can find the pdf versions of this pattern in all of the usual places:
Ravelry here
Our shop here
Etsy here
Lovecrafts here
4 worsted/aran weight 100% cotton yarn such as Lily Sugar’n’Cream or Paintbox cotton (my favorite!) in three colors—a medium, a light, and a white are preferred, but ultimately up to you, but you will need one ball of each color plus a little extra of the medium color, and a Jumbo sized (#7 jumbo) yarn such as Bernat Maker Big, for the basket, one skein will be needed
• Size J-6mm hook and size Q15mm hook for basket
• Scissors
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Not important for this pattern
Also not important for this pattern as this is personal preference. Each pattern is written so that you can make it bigger or smaller, easily.
Chain 3 at the beginning does count as a dc unless otherwise stated.
Once you have created your starting chain, turn the chain over so that the back “hump” is showing and work your stitches into that. This creates a much neater edge to work with when doing a border.
Ch—Chain
St(s)—Stitch(es)
Dc—Double crochet
IXS— Interlinked Cross Stitch
NS—N stitch
Sp(s)—Space(s)
Rep—Repeat
*to*–Repeat the instructions written between the two *
Tc—Turning chain
HDC—Half-double crochet
YO—yarn over
SC—Single Crochet
MR—Magic Ring
BLO—Back Loop Only
CS—Crab stitch (reverse sc)
Interlocking Cross Stitch—In next stitch, work a DC, work another DC in the previous stitch going behind the DC just made. Two dc’s will share a spot, thus making it interlocking. Video here.
N Stitch—Skip one stitch, hdc in the next stitch, insert hook from top to bottom of front loop only of skipped stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru ONE loop, yo, insert hook back into the stitch you did the hdc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook. Video here.
Puff stitch—Yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into same st and pull up a loop rep to until you have 7 loops on your hook, yo, pull thru all 7 loops, ch1 to secure (the ch1 DOES count as a stitch so be sure to account for this when working with puff stitches). Video here.
Magic Ring—Wrap the yarn around two fingers (forefinger and middle finger) crossing the first loop so that the second loop is behind the first loop; using your hook, place it under the front loop and grab that back loop, pull it up and twist the loop on the hook, yo and ch 1, turn the work so it is no longer twisted. You will work over all strands of yarn—this is so that you can pull the tail end to make the ring center tight. Watch the video here.
Crab Stitch—also known as the reverse SC stitch—insert hook in the stitch to the right instead of left, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops. Continue in this fashion all the way around. Video here.
With darkest color, ch 31
Row 1—Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across (30)
Row 2—ch1 and turn, hdc in first st, NS in ea st across until you reach the last st, hdc in last st
For Row 3—ch 1 and turn, sc in first st and in ea across
Rows 4-27—Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach 27 rows (or until you have made your cloth as big as you want, ending on a sc row). FO and weave in ends.
Border:
Row 1—attach white (or lightest color) to any corner and sc in that st and around, placing [sc, ch1, sc] in each corner, when you get to your first sc, ch1 and join. FO.
Row 2—attach medium colored yarn to any corner and sc in that st and in each across, putting [sc, ch1, sc] in the ch1 sp in each corner. When you get to the first sc you made, ch1 and join. FO and weave in all ends.
Make one in each color (3 total)
MR: work 6 puff stitches in MR and ss to join to top of first puff st, pull tight to close.
Rnd 2—ch1, make IXS around using each st of the previous round (this includes the ch1 that is made when making the puff st see special sts on puff st. Join to first IXS st
Rnd 3—ch1, puff st in same st and in each around, join to top of first puff st
For Rnd 4—ch1, sc in same st and in each around. Join to first sc. FO. Weave in ends.
This will use all 3 colors
MR— using dark color, ch3, 11 dc in ring (for a total of 12 counting the ch3), join to top of ch3 with a ss.
Rnd 1—ch3, dc in same st, 2dc in ea st around, join to top of ch3. FO, weave in ends.
Rnd 2—change to light color: ch3, sk 2 sts, ss in next, ch3, ss in next ch3 sp rep around—at this point you are working in continuous rounds and will stop creating mesh when your mesh section measures about 3” unstretched. FO. Weave in ends.
For Rnd 3—join dark color to any ch3 sp and ch3, dc in same sp, sk to next ch3 sp and *work 2dc in that sp, sk to next
ch3 sp*, rep *to* around, join to top of ch3.
Rnd 4—ch1, work IXS around, join to first IXS. FO, weave in ends.
Rnd 5—using white (or lightest color), leaving a little bit longer tail, ch 51 and FO leaving a little bit longer tail on this end, also. Attach yarn needle to one of the ends and weave the chain in and out of the 2dc row just before the IXS row of your bag—this is your draw string. Trim the ends to your desired length and tie together however you wish (I tied mine at the end of the actual chain stitches).
This pattern uses white and your medium color.
Rnd 1—with white, make a MR and make 20 sc in the MR. You won’t be able to pull the ring closed as there are just too many stitches, but you can pull it as closed as the stitches will allow. Join to first sc and chain 40. Join this ch with a ss to same st. FO, weave in ends. (this is the base and handle for the pouf)
Rnd 2—attach medium color to first sc to the left of the string handle, ch3 (counts as a dc), 3dc in same st, 4dc in next st, rep to around, ss to top of ch3.
Your work will be very curly here, which is exactly what we want.
For Rnd 3—ch3, 3dc in same st, 4dc in next st rep to around, join to top of ch3.
At this point, your pouf looks just like ….a POUF! You can twist the center section once or twice to make it a look the way you want it to.
FO and weave in ends.
Using the Bernat Maker Big (jumbo) yarn and size Q-15mm hook, make a MR.
Rnd 1—make 6 hdc in the ring, pull tight and ss to first hdc.
Rnd 2—ch1, 2hdc in same st and in ea around, join to first hdc.
For Rnd 3—ch1, hdc in same st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next rep to around, join to first hdc
Rnd 4—ch1, hdc in same st and in next st 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2, rep to around, join to first hdc
Rnd 5—ch1, sc in BLO of ea st around, join to first sc
Rnds 6-9—ch1, sc in both loops in ea st around.
Finally, Rnd 10—ch1, CS around. I slip stitched to the inside of the first st I made of this round (inside the basket) which closed it up nice and evenly. FO. Weave in ends.
You can find the pdf versions of this pattern in all of the usual places:
Ravelry here
Our shop here
Etsy here
Lovecrafts here
A fantastic Mother’s Day gift–or a gift for any occasion! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and my blog. Please remember:
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