Looking to try more interesting stitches? Try the Cabled Cowl
The crochet cabled cowl is a great project is you are a beginner looking for more than just the basic stitches. It is also a good project for more experienced crocheters too!
This cowl will introduce you to the first step of being able to work cables – working around the front post. Sometimes we learn best when we move forward one step at a time. Mastering one skill at a time often leads to greater confidence, less stress and you are less likely to put your hook down in frustration never to pick it up again. There are video tutorial linked further down the post to help you do these.
I love designing patterns that allow you to progress on your crochet journey in a simple, logical way. The Cabled Cowl not only does this but it looks stunning too!
Inspiration behind the design
I designed this cabled cowl pattern in May 2021, specifically for a guest post on Fosbas Designs’ blog. With an ultimate plan to create a learn to cable series for you all I just need the time to actually do it!
Anyway, back to the cabled cowl ….
You can really play around with your yarn colours with this one. As you can see, using the same colour gives you a more subtle feel, while carrying yarn and creating the front post stitches in a different colour really does make the design pop!
Construction of the Crochet Cabled Cowl design
This cabled cowl is make in the round so there is no seaming to be done, only a couple of ends to weave in once you are finished.
It may be worth noting that cabled designs are not reversible!
If you decide to carry your yarn around this one please be aware that it will make the cowl thicker (and warmer) but will reduce the drape. I would suggest if you are going to do this to use #3 weight (DK) yarn instead of #4 (aran) weight. Alternatively you could use the stitch multiple and create a longer cowl that you can tuck into your coat and really keep your chest warm.
The Yarn
I used a couple of different yarns in my samples to try them out. For a cowl by far the best feeling one with the nicest drape was the gold version. For this one I used Women’s Institute aran yarn (400g skeins) which you can only get in the UK from Hobby Craft. A comparable yarn in thickness and sheen would be Caron Simply Soft or Yarn Bee Soft Secret.
The purple version was made with Paintbox Simply Aran but because I carried my yarn it was, in all honest, too rigid. But it would make a stunning basket! (Another pattern on my to do list LOL).
The cream and tan was Stylecraft Special – again I made it with #4 weight (aran) yarn and will be remaking it with #3 weight. But I do love this colour combo!
Get the PDF pattern!
You can find the ad-free PDF Pattern for this one in all of my shops:
The pattern specifics:
Materials:
| · #3 weight yarn of choice. I used approx. 560 yards (less than 1 skein each of parchment, cream and meadow) of Stylecraft Special DK for the green / grey and cream version. · 4.5mm hook · Stitch markers (optional) · Scissors |
Gauge:
| Approximately 8sc x 11 rows = 2” x 2” – As this is a cowl gauge is not essential. |
Sizing:
My cowl is 6.75”” high by 12” wide (24” circumference)
Abbreviations used:
· Ch – chain · Ch sp – chain space · St / sts – stitch / stitches · Sk – skip · Sc – single crochet · FPDC – front post double crochet · Rep – repeat · FO – fasten off |
Other notes:
| · Written in US terms · This pattern is not reversible · Ch1 at the start of the row does not count as a st. · When working a FPDC you will do so in the stitch one row below. For example, if you are working round 7, you will work FPDC into the stitches on round 5. When working sc you will work directly into the previous round. · To amend length and make an infinity scarf you will need to adjust the stitch multiple by 12. · If you would like to make this in aran you absolutely can. I would suggest a 5mm hook and 2 colours (edging and main body without the FPDC stitches being a different colour). This will get you a cowl approximately 28” circumference. To do this change colours at rounds 3 and 32. · If you would like to use aran and have the fpdc a contrasting colour then I suggest at least a 6mm hook. Your cowl will also be longer. This is because carrying the yarn creates a much stiffer fabric the thicker the yarn is. You can adjust the stitch multiple to get the size you prefer. |
Special Stitches:
Front Post Double Crochet:
Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from front to back between the posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches. The hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the double crochet that you’re working around. Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch. You now have 3 loops on the hook.Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice. One front post double crochet (FP dc) is complete.
You can find my video tutorials for this stitch at:
The Pattern for the cabled cowl:
Round 1: FSC 120
OR
Ch 121, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (120)
Without twisting, ss to join each end.
Round 2: Ch2 (does not count) DC in each st around. SS to join
Round 3: Ch1 (does not count) HDC in third loop only in each st around. SS to join
Round 4: Ch1, SC in each st around SS to join
Round 5: Ch1, SC in first 4 sts, FPDC around next 4 sts (remember you are working into the row below when working FPDC sts – see pattern notes above) *SC in the next 8 sts, FPDC around the next 4 sts. Rep from * around until you have 4 sts left, SC in last 4 sts. SS to join
Round 6: CH1, SC in each st around. SS to join
Round 7: CH1, SC in first 3 sts, FPDC around the next SC, *FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next FPDC, FPDC around next SC,SC in next 6 SC. Rep from * around until you have 3 sts left, SC in last 3 sts. SS to join
Round 8: Repeat round 6
Round 9: CH1, SC in first 2 sts, *FPDC around the next SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in the next 4 sc, FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next SC, SC in the next 4 SC. Rep from * around ending with SC in the last 2 SC. SS to join
Round 10: Rep round 6.
Round 11: CH1, SC in the first st, *FPDC around the next SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in the next 2 SC, FPDC around the next 2 SC, SC in the next 2 SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next SC, SC in the next 2 SC. Rep from * around ending with SC in the last sc. SS to join
Round 12: Rep round 6
Round 13: CH1, *FPDC around the next SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in the next 2 SC, FPDC around the next SC, FPDC around the next 2 FPDC, FPDC around the next SC, SC in the next 2 SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next SC. Rep from * around. SS to join
Round 14: Rep round 6
Round 15: CH1, *FPDC around next FPDC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next SC, FPDC around next FPDC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next FPDC, FPDC around next SC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around the next FPDC. Rep from * around. SS to join
Round 16: Repeat round 6
Round 17: Repeat round 9
Round 18: Repeat round 6
Round 19: CH1, SC in first 2 sts, *FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in the next 4 SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in the next 4 SC. Rep from * around ending with SC in the last 2 SC. SS to join
Round 20: Repeat round 6
Round 21: CH1,* FPDC around 1st SC, SC in next SC, SC in next FPDC, FPDC around the next FPDC, FPDC around the next SC, SC in the next 2 SC, FPDC around the next SC, FPDC around the next FPDC, SC in next FPDC, SC in next SC, FPDC around next SC. Rep from * around. SS to join
Round 22: Repeat round 6
Round 23: CH1, *FPDC around FPDC, FPDC around next SC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next FPDC, FPDC around next 2 SC, FPDC around next FPDC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC in next SC, FPDC in next FPDC. Rep from * around. SS to join
Round 24: Repeat round 6
Round 25: CH1, SC in first st, *FPDC around next FPDC, FPDC around next SC, SC in next 2 sc, FPDC around next 2 FPDC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next SC, FPDC around next FPDC, SC in next 2 SC. Rep from * around ending with SC in the last SC. SS to join
Round 26: Repeat round 6
Round 27: CH1, SC in first 2 sts, *FPDC in next FPDC, FPDC around next SC, SC in next 4 sts, FPDC around next SC, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in next 4 sts. Rep from * around ending with SC in last 2 sts. SS to join
Round 28: Repeat round 6
Round 29: CH1, SC in first 3 sc, *FPDC around next FPDC, FPDC around next SC, SC in next 2 SC, FPDC around next SC, FPDC around next FPDC, SC in next 6 SC. Rep from * ending with 3 SC. SS to join
Round 30: Rep round 6
Round 31: CH1, SC in first 4 sts, *FPDC in next FPDC, FPDC around next 2 SC, FPDC around next FPDC, sc in next 8 sts, Rep from * around ending with sc in the last 4 sts. SS to join
Round 32: Ch1, HDC in each st around. SS to join.
Round 33: Ch2 (does not count), DC third loop only in each st around. SS to join.
Round 34: Ch1, SS in each stitch around.
FO and weave in ends!
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